Valentia Island, Co. Kerry


Valentia Island, Co. Kerry


Cubs Diarmuid (divela)
On the southern side of the island and 150m east of Bray Head is Cubs Diarmuid. Depths vary from 16–30m and beyond. The terrain is boulders with cliff face, drop offs and ledges. Kelp is plentiful and may be avoided by swimming southwards from the cliff face to a depth of 20–25m. Strong tides prevail if one swims too far south. Flood tides sweep in and eastwards. An SMB is advisable. Rose coral is found below 25m. Wrasse, pollack, conger eel, velvet crab, brown crab, lobster and crabs are plentiful. It is a photographers paradise.
Spit Rocks
Another great dive and many of the species encountered in the previous locations occur here. At Bray Head and Spit Rocks the tides differ in that they tend to sweep outwards and north in a flood tide and outwards and south in an ebb tide.
Basalt Cliffs
On the NW side of Beginish Island the cliffs offer depths from 8–30m. There are dropoffs, ledges, boulders, caves and fish life. If a swell is running caution is needed especially in a NW wind. When leaving the harbour it is advisable to stay close to the Valentia (lighthouse) side. The eastern corner of Beginish is dangerous to all vessels if white water is evident.
Coastguards Patch
This is a rather inaccessible location marked on the charts. The bank is easily found with an echosounder and a transit of the lighthouse tower (14) and Jeremiah O’Connell’s house (15). It is governed by tides which can be strong. The best time to dive is at slack water on neap tides. A marked shot line and depth sounder are advisable. As the pinnacle begins at 24m and continues to 45m+ a shot line is necessary to avoid missing the peak. If conditions are suitable and the tides slack the rock can be circumnavigated. The visibility is usually 20m+. The area is frequently fished so nets and pots may be encountered.
Culoo Head
This is a famous shore angling location and a good dive site. Entering just west of the head (to avoid angling tackle) and swimming WSW you come upon a crater like bottom. Some very large holes have the stone in place which caused the crater. Shoals of mackerel are common in season. It is possible to encounter a shoal which lasts the duration of the dive, this is an exhilarating experience.
Oilean an Iasc
North of Dolus head is an inlet with a large rock in the centre. There is ample room for two boats to manoeuvre in safety on the south side. In ideal conditions this is a wonderful dive site. There is spectacular scenery in every direction. Fish life is abundant and the anenomies are a particular feature. It is possible for divers to swim around the rock, and swimming from the inside, keeping the cliff face to the left, an old mast can be seen close to the rock.
Valentia Bridge
So, the worst has happened: it is blowing westerly force 8! Do not retire to the pub in dismay; Valentia bridge is eminently divable in these conditions. Make your boat fast to the bridge’s central pier at 1 hour and 20 minutes before high water. Let the hurricane now blow as it will, you can dive in clear, still water between the plumose-anemone clad pier piles. The depth is only 8m, but the sea-life is even deeper! Mussels grow on the wooden fenders, and then fall to the bottom where every other creature of the sea assembles for the feast!
Bray Head
To the west of Cubs Diarmuid, Bray Head is more exposed to the elements and the diving is similar. A feature, however, is the presence of diving seabirds. These can be razorbill, guillemot and puffin. Seals also regularly check out the intruders and can nibble a fin when in playful mood, which is the only time they are evident.
Harbour Rock
Situated within the harbour this rock is marked by a metal perch and light. Depending on the state of the tide a depth of 12m is attainable. It is an ideal location for a novice or trainee dive. Visibility varies from 4m after rainfall to 12m. The life includes anemones, deadmen’s fingers, wrasse pollack, lobster, conger eel, shrimp, starfish, urchins, scallop, squat lobster and shoals of mackerel in season.
Basalt Cliffs
On the NW side of Beginish Island the cliffs offer depths from 8–30m. There are dropoffs, ledges, boulders, caves and fish life. If a swell is running caution is needed especially in a NW wind. When leaving the harbour it is advisable to stay close to the Valentia (lighthouse) side. The eastern corner of Beginish is dangerous to all vessels if white water is evident.
Black Island
This is an interesting but shallow dive. Gullies run westwards from the shore. It is best to enter between the islands, submerge and swim northeast in a flood tide or southwest during an ebb tide. The ridges vary in depth from 4–12m and deeper away from shore. Kelp abounds and visibility is usually good. Fish life is profuse.
Dulus Head
This is the most prominent head just north of Valentia in Dolus Bay. Descending close to the cliff one will see a cavern at 9m divided in two by a column of rock. It is possible to enter on one side, swim into the interior, and exit the other side. The floor of the cavern is covered by a carpet of mussels. The column is home to jewel anenomies. In good visibility no torch will be needed. There is a shelf at 18m and further shelves continue to beyond 30m. On ebb tides descend at the headland and swim southward while on flood tide swim northward.
The Birds
Hugging the coast NE from Dolus head and avoiding the reef (X) you come to a cliff face which is home to razorbills, kittiwakes and guillemots (hence the name). The sea bottom at the eastern end of the cliff is at 16–18m. The underwater cliff face is covered with life. Little ledges are host to many species of crab, lobster and crayfish; pollack swim nonchalantly by, wrasse are plentiful, and many cuckoo wrasse are inquisitive. In late spring or early summer it is possible to find intact bird’s eggs which have fallen from the nests above. Properly treated these make a lovely memento of your visit. Continue to swim westwards as the terrain and the life change. To the north the depth increases to 20–25mbut the sealife is less interesting.

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