Dunmanus Bay, Co. Cork


Dunmanus Bay, Co. Cork


Kilcrohane Pier
Turn left at the western end of Kilcrohane village by the children’s playground and follow the road along to the small pier and slipway. Boats can be launched here above half-tide to access dive sites further west along the coast. The area around the pier is suitable for shore diving for the less experienced and also night diving with depths of 5-15m.
Ballybroom Pier
About 5km west of Kilcrohane there is a small museum by a junction where the road splits, straight on heads towards Sheep’s Head and right continues along the “Goats Path” back towards Bantry. A small road leads down to the left here and runs to a surprisingly large pier and slipway after about 1km. This is the last access point on the northern side of Dunmanus Bay, high cliffs run on from here to Sheep’s Head 7km away.
As the little bay faces southwest it offers little shelter and is only useful in calm weather, when shore dives and short distance boat dives are rewarding without being too demanding. Diving under the high cliffs close to the headland is not as exciting as you would expect and hardly worth the effort involved in getting to this very remote place.
Canty’s Cove
Head west along the coast road from Dunmanus Harbour for about 5hm until the small hamlet of Dunkelly is reached. The road takes a sharp turn to the left after the fourth house on the left which has a derelict lean-to. Turn down to the right 20m before the sharp bend onto a narrow gravel road which twists and turns for 1km down to a charming cove with pier and slipway. The steepness of the access road demands a vehicle that can pull the boat easily. If you did run into problems, the boat could be recovered at Dunmanus Harbour 4km away.
The bottom of the cove is coarse sand and the water is usually crystal clear with loads of life on the rocky sides of the cove. Access into the water is very easy and it is the ideal spot for trainees, snorkellers and night dives. On the left of the cove there are three fissures in the rock that lead to an open space with a hidden waterfall. One entrance is 2m wide and open to the sky, another is narrower, closed overhead but with ample air space. The third is quite a wriggle but is dry at the highest sport at low water and it all makes for an interesting exploration.
Canty’s Cove is the most westerly launching place for boats for those heading for the spectacular dives along the cliffs running west to Three Castle Head 10km away. However, there are interesting intermediate dives from a boat close to the shore, particularly around to the left leaving the cove, where depths down to 30m can be selected.
Dooneen Wall
Just 50m off the cliff that forms the outside of the promontory that protects Dooneen Pier is a spectacular wall that plunges from 25–43m. For those coming by boat direct from Canty’s Cove, the white house at Dooneen is clearly visible as you approach. There is an archway through the headland which can be used by boats when it is very calm, however to find the wall ignore the archway and carry on around the headland to its NW point.
Drop divers about 25m due north of this point to land in about 20m of water. Swimming due north will bring you rapidly to the edge of the wall after a distance of about 50m and at a depth of around 26m. The rim of the wall is quite abrupt and actually overhangs in places. Since it is 17m straight down and below 40m at the bottom, going “over the edge” is a dive for experienced divers only. For those using computers it is possible to swim back up the wall and return gradually to shallow water, finishing up with an ascent from only 10m without incurring any decompression requirement, thus making for a satisfying and safe deep dive. Continuing around the headland a little more, close to the exit of the archway, there is very good intermediate diving close in to the rocks if there is no westerly swell.
Toor Pier
This site has been described under “Mizen Head” as far as shore diving is concerned, but it is a handy place to collect divers from if diving on the towering cliffs that run west towards Three Castle Head, rather than make the long journey from Canty’s Cove with an overloaded boat. Having a boat at Toor Pier also allows you to dive on the outside of the island without having to worry about a long swim back to the pier. The coast just to the west of the island is not exceptional but if the weather is calm a trip of 3km brings you to the very end of the bay and some spectacular diving.
South Bullig Reef
This very tricky site is actually an underwater extension of the cliffs of Three Castle Head. A narrow reef runs south west about 1km from the headland before finally giving way to the deep waters offshore. The last rock rises to within 6m of the surface with rock faces cascading down on three sides to 50m and beyond. As this is a very high energy site the fish life and underwater scenery is spectacular, but of course it can only be dived in very calm seas. It is also critical to dive only at slack water as with the steep drop offs the consequence of drifting off the rock on the descent means an aborted dive as you will never see the bottom before you reach your depth limit!
By lining up Bird Island and the cliffs at Three Castle Head so that they just touch, you will have the line of the reef and for those without an echo sounder the end of the reef can be found by dragging an anchor. Do not guess and be sure to use a shot line when divers go down. The nearest access point for picking up divers is Dunlough Pier which is about 1km southeast of the headland. (for directions – see Mizen Head, shore dives)
Dooneen North
Head west out of Kilcrohane for 3km until you spot a solitary bar on the left side of the road. After a further 200m take a turn to the left by a large red barn. Follow the narrow road down to a substantial pier. There is no possibility of launching boats here but they can easily be brought from Kilcrohane Pier only 1km away. With a boat you can explore the area around the headland where intermediate dives with depths of 20-30m can be reached.
The area in the vicinity of the pier is well protected from the prevailing westerly winds and can be dived when other sites are too rough. If shore diving the area, out and to the right of the pier are the most interesting with rocky outcrops and ridges. Depths of 20m can be obtained after a reasonable fin before the bottom runs into sand. Watch out for subsurface mariculture frames and ropes. About 25m. To the left of the pier there is a narrow cleft which runs back 50m into the cliff. The cave is never narrower than a metre wide and has an air space above it at all times. At high water the cave is 10m deep and there are extensive vertical walls which are carpeted with jewel anemones, particularly near the entrance. A torch is useful for exploring the end of the cave where you should also watch out for a surge if there is any swell running at sea. This site is suitable for novices and less experienced divers.
Dunmanus Harbour
The substantial pier is used by local fishermen and has just enough water off the head for a boat at low tide, but at low springs it may be necessary to paddle a short distance before lowering the engine. Boats may be launched across a hard gravel shore via a short track about 100m east of the pier. There are no steep gradients and boat trailers can be easily manhandled into the water, however for larger boats launching would need at least half-tide. The harbour is sheltered except for strong north-westerlies and it should be safe to moor a boat if several days diving in the bay are planned.
The harbour itself is suitable for snorkelling or training but for diving it is best to head west out of the harbour. There is good intermediate diving close to the headland only 100m beyond the harbour mouth. Further around the headland there is deep water close in where advanced divers can easily find depths of up to 40m. It is wise to drop a shot line to assess the depth before diving as the deep water comes very close to the shore in places.
It is possible to shore dive this general area on a calm day by driving 1km west along the coast road where there are access points down to the shore across the fields for the nimble footed diver.
Carbery Island about 2km out in the middle of the bay may look promising but in fact has nothing special to offer the diver.
Dooneen South
Head west from Dunmanus Harbour as for Canty’s Cove (see above) but at the sharp bend do not take the gravel road but take a tarred road to the right 20m further on. After 1.5km turn down right again at a group of farm houses and head for a large solitary white house by the shore about 1.5km away. A small pier and slip are reached just before the house. Parking is tight here and the track is often used by local farmers, so be considerate. The slipway is very rough and only suitable for the smallest of inflatables. Larger boats can easily be brought from Canty’s Cove only 2km away. However the pier is very handy for shore diving as the little cove faces NE and is quite sheltered.
The bottom is very interesting with depths of 5 –15m to the right of the pier or across towards the point opposite and is an ideal site for intermediate divers. For those with even the smallest of boats, there is excellent diving around the headland to the left.
The Iberian
The 2000 ton cargo ship, the Iberian, was en route from Boston to Liverpool when she sank on 20 November 1885 after getting lost in fog and striking a reef south of Bird Island. She was carrying cattle and general cargo along with 54 passengers and crew. No lives were lost in the accident and the ship slipped back into deeper water after 2 days, where she lies today in 30–38m. Due to the depth the wreck has not been totally flattened by a century of storms and some sections still stand several metres clear of the rocky bottom. The underwater scenery is also very good at this site making this an ideal spot for a group of divers with varied aspirations! As this wreck is now more than 100 years old, a permit is required to dive on her.

Directions: Bird Island lies 5km west of the last boat launching site of Canty’s Cove. The wreck lies 500m beyond the island just off the low rocky promontory that continues westwards while the main cliffs turn south. It is possible to pass between Bird Island and the mainland, but watch out for a nasty couple of rocks mid channel that only just show at high tide.
The simplest way to find the wreck is to start your dive close in about midway along the low pile of rocks in about 15m of water and then fin out into deeper water heading NW. The stern section of the ship with the (iron) prop still in place is in about 35m and stands 5m proud of the bottom. Note that no wreckage has been found below 40m at this site, so if you find yourself this deep, turn back!
Three Castle Head
The southern end of Dunmanus Bay is reached at Three Castle Head where the 50m depth contour almost touches the shore and in fact the drop off is so fast that it is hard to find water shallow enough to drop anchor! The last 100m offers the very best of the diving with massive cliffs above and below water.
Below the surface extensive rock faces are covered in every kind of life and large shoals of fish abound. The best of the scenery is in the range 25-35m with the rocks tumbling down a further 25m below this again. A strong tidal current flows across the point so be careful not to venture into it if the tide is running. This site is exposed and isolated and requires calm weather, experienced divers and reliable boats to be dived safely, however the rewards well justify the extra effort.

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